{"id":3522,"date":"2022-09-26T23:41:42","date_gmt":"2022-09-26T21:41:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/?p=3522"},"modified":"2022-09-28T14:07:14","modified_gmt":"2022-09-28T12:07:14","slug":"bosna-a-hercegovina-cervenec-2022","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/2022\/09\/26\/bosna-a-hercegovina-cervenec-2022\/","title":{"rendered":"Bosna a Hercegovina – \u010dervenec 2022"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Bosna mne l\u00e1kala u\u017e mnoho let a kone\u010dn\u011b jsem na ni na\u0161el trochu \u010dasu.<\/p>

V pl\u00e1nu byla hlavn\u011b n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bva Sarajeva, hor, Mostaru a vodop\u00e1d\u016f Kravica. Tedy ta nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsta. Pot\u00e9 na p\u00e1r dn\u016f do Chorvatska, aby Sofie vid\u011bla poprv\u00e9 mo\u0159e.<\/p>

Cesta do Sarajeva je a\u017e k chorvatsk\u00fdm hranic\u00edm pom\u011brn\u011b svi\u017en\u00e1.<\/p>

Z Prahy p\u0159es Brno do Bratislavy (slovensk\u00e1 d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed zn\u00e1mka, lze zakoupit online), pak na Budape\u0161\u0165 (ma\u010farsk\u00e1 d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed zn\u00e1mka, online), potom p\u0159es Chorvatsko (m\u00fdtnice) a\u017e k bosensk\u00fdm hranic\u00edm a pot\u00e9 mimo d\u00e1lnice pomalou j\u00edzdou a\u017e do Sarajeva https:\/\/mapy.cz\/s\/pusuferego.<\/p>

Tankov\u00e1n\u00ed vych\u00e1z\u00ed nejdr\u00e1\u017ee v Ma\u010farsku – pro cizince maj\u00ed vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed cenu, pak na chorvatsk\u00fdch d\u00e1lnic\u00edch (maj\u00ed zastropovanou cenu, ale s v\u00fdjimkou pr\u00e1v\u011b pro d\u00e1lni\u010dn\u00ed pumpy).<\/p>

V bosn\u011b i chorvatsku je velk\u00e1 p\u0159em\u00edra dog friendly hotel\u016f. P\u0159\u00edmo v Sarajevu mohu doporu\u010dit Guest house Bebek, kter\u00fd je p\u0159\u00edmo v centru a po rekonstrukci.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Sarajevo<\/h3>

\u00a0je kouzeln\u00e9, fantastick\u00e9, v\u0159el\u00e9, malebn\u00e9, rozst\u0159\u00edlen\u00e9 a trochu smutn\u00e9.\u00a0<\/p>

Centrum je mal\u00e9, za nav\u0161t\u00edven\u00ed pochopiteln\u011b stoj\u00ed nap\u0159\u00edklad vyhl\u00eddka na m\u011bsto \u017duta Tabija, n\u00e1m\u011bst\u00ed s trhy\u00a0Ba\u0161\u010dar\u0161ija, most kde picli Franti\u0161ka Josefa\u00a0Latinska \u0107uprija (nen\u00ed nikde moc ozna\u010den\u00fd, moc se k tomu pochopiteln\u011b nehl\u00e1s\u00ed). Z j\u00eddla stoj\u00ed za vyzkou\u0161en\u00ed v\u0161echno. Googlete, aktu\u00e1ln\u00ed recenze napov\u00ed nejv\u00edce.<\/p>

M\u011bsto je to mal\u00e9, opravdu malebn\u00e9, v sev\u0159en\u00ed hor (..), po k\u0159iv\u00fdch kolej\u00edch jezd\u00ed star\u00e9 tramvaje z \u010cKD a v kr\u00e1sn\u00fdch kav\u00e1rn\u00e1ch serv\u00edruj\u00ed do c\u00ednov\u00e9ho n\u00e1dob\u00ed dokonalou bosenskou k\u00e1vu s barevnou kosti\u010dkou rahat lukum. A bosensk\u00e9 holky? Wow!<\/p>

A vlastn\u011b ani nev\u00edm, jak pokra\u010dovat. Jedn\u00edm z d\u016fvod\u016f, pro\u010d do Bosny, byl i jugosl\u00e1vsk\u00fdch konflikt a jeho st\u00e1le z\u0159eteln\u00e9 stopy.<\/p>

M\u011bsto bylo mezi lety 1992 a 1996 obl\u00e9h\u00e1no a jedin\u00fdm spojen\u00edm s okoln\u00edm sv\u011btem bylo p\u0159es sarajevsk\u00e9 leti\u0161t\u011b, kter\u00e9 bylo pod kontrolou UNPROFORu. Podrobnosti zde:\u00a0obl\u00e9h\u00e1n\u00ed na wikipedii.\u00a0<\/a><\/p>

Ve zkratce, kv\u016fli z\u00e1sobov\u00e1n\u00ed a evakuaci osob byl pod leti\u0161t\u011bm vykop\u00e1n tunel. Z tunelu je dnes „muzeum“.<\/p>

Nicm\u00e9n\u011b, ve m\u011bst\u011b je po\u0159\u00e1d velk\u00e1 spousta rozst\u0159\u00edlen\u00fdch dom\u016f. Cestou k onomu muzeu kolem nich proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edte a v\u0161emu v d\u00e1li v\u00e9vod\u00ed v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e1 budova bosensk\u00e9ho parlamentu (..)<\/p>

Hele, jd\u011bte.\u00a0<\/p>

V\u00edc k tomu ps\u00e1t ani nechci.\u00a0<\/p>

Venku u\u017e \u010dek\u00e1 Sofie a do Sarajeva se chci ur\u010dit\u011b n\u011bkdy vr\u00e1tit. S Noktonem, na k\u00e1vu.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Tjenti\u0161t\u011b<\/h3>

a pak hur\u00e1 do Tjenti\u0161t\u011b! Co\u017e je takov\u00e1 vesnice s restaurac\u00ed, kter\u00e1 z\u016fstala v \u010desk\u00fdch devades\u00e1tk\u00e1ch, a to i s t\u00edm \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edkem v b\u00edl\u00e9 ko\u0161ili. Cel\u00e1 Bosna jsou hodn\u011b devades\u00e1tky:)<\/p>

Ve vsi m\u016f\u017eete obdivovat brutalistick\u00fd pomn\u00edk bitvy o Sutjesku – hrdinsk\u00fd boj jugosl\u00e1vc\u016f proti fa\u0161ist\u016fm.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Bosanski Magli\u010d<\/h4>

no a pak je takov\u00e1 \u010desk\u00e1 specialita, a to vystoupat na nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed bosensk\u00fd vrchol.. \ud83d\ude00 S noc\u00ed v \u010dern\u00e9 ho\u0159e u jezera a v\u00fdstupem druh\u00fd den r\u00e1no.\u00a0<\/p>

Z Tjenti\u0161t\u011b se odbo\u010d\u00ed do sedla Prijevor. M\u00edrn\u011b rozbitou cestu zakr\u00e1tko p\u0159ehrad\u00ed z\u00e1vora a z boudy vyb\u00edh\u00e1 z\u0159\u00edzenec. Pob\u00edh\u00e1 kolem auta, gestikuluje a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 „niske, niske, auto niske“. Jasn\u011b. Kdo vym\u011bkn\u011b – m\u016f\u017ee se nechat vyv\u00e9zt do sedla offroadem n\u011bkoho ze vsi. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b za poplatek. U mne m\u00e1 sm\u016flu, plat\u00edm poplatek jen za n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvu n\u00e1rodn\u00edho parku a jedu d\u00e1l, nahoru. Do h\u00e1je, ta cesta je fakt pekeln\u00e1 a kamen\u00ed obrovsk\u00e9! Jakoby silnice je na hranici sj\u00edzdnosti, dva „pruhy“ odd\u011blen\u00e9 nahrnutou zeminou a obrovsk\u00fdmi \u0161utry. Kola na kamenech poskakuj\u00ed, xDrive vyrovn\u00e1v\u00e1 divokou trajektorii v rozm\u011bkl\u00e9m bahn\u011b a j\u00e1 se sna\u017e\u00edm hlavn\u011b nezastavovat. Couvat nen\u00ed kam a oto\u010dit se nen\u00ed jak. Po p\u00e1r km potk\u00e1v\u00e1m BAGR. Ten bagr kter\u00fd v r\u00e1mci \u00fadr\u017eby silnice ten prvn\u00ed \u00fasek leda tak kardin\u00e1ln\u011b rozjebal. Mistrn\u011b se navz\u00e1jem vyhneme a d\u00e1l, tvl, do h\u00e1je, d\u00e1l je ta cesta \u00fapln\u011b v pohod\u011b! Kdyby mi to z\u0159\u00edzenec dole, u br\u00e1ny, \u0159ekl, nebo aspo\u0148 nakreslil, tak si za ten v\u00fdvoz offroadem r\u00e1d zaplat\u00edm, nebo alespo\u0148 hodinu po\u010dk\u00e1m, a\u017e ten blbej bagr sjede dol\u016f a bude aspo\u0148 ul\u00edznut\u00e1 cesta. Nu\u017e, zbytek cesty je u\u017e \u00fapln\u011b v pohod\u011b, Naho\u0159e parkuj\u00ed auta v\u00fdrazn\u011b men\u0161\u00ed, star\u0161\u00ed a NI\u017d\u0160\u00cd tyvole!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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No, cesta na Magli\u010d vede p\u0159es \u010cernou horu.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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A ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b, to mi zas nikdo ne\u0159ekl a ani jsem s t\u00edm nepo\u010d\u00edtal. Ale kr\u00e1tce za touhle cedul\u00ed, nebo stromem, to je jedno, za\u010dlo PEKLO. Ve dvou tis\u00edc\u00edch metrech nad mo\u0159em \u00fapln\u00e1 mra\u010dna kom\u00e1r\u016f, \u010derno, pohroma, krevn\u00ed banka v pohybu v \u017eiv\u00e9m p\u0159enosu! P\u0159esn\u011b ten hororov\u00fd v\u00fdjev, kdy se pod\u00edv\u00e1te na ruku a sed\u00ed na ni okolo deseti BESTI\u00cd SE SOS\u00c1KEM. Ode\u017eenete je druhou rukou a na ni vid\u00edte DVACET BESTI\u00cd! Doprdele. Nekec\u00e1m. Ve zb\u011bsil\u00e9m tempu jsme dob\u011bhli k jezeru Trnova\u010dko. Tam sed\u011bla skupinka srb\u016f s m\u00edstn\u00edm spr\u00e1vcem, \u010dernohorcem. Asi byl na m\u011b velmi zoufal\u00fd pohled, neb se mn\u011b notn\u011b vysm\u00e1li. A asi byl i tak zoufal\u00fd, \u017ee jsem dostal i n\u011bjak\u00fd dom\u00e1c\u00ed kr\u00e9m proti t\u011bm debiln\u00edm kom\u00e1r\u016fm. Za stanov\u00e1n\u00ed u jezera, nebo vstup do \u010dern\u00e9 hory, whatever, se plat\u00ed. Z\u0159\u00edzenec tam chlad\u00ed i pivo a kolu, ale cenu u\u017e taky nev\u00edm, v tu chv\u00edli je to FAKT jedno. Pak kom\u00e1r\u016f, mo\u017en\u00e1 i d\u00edky tomu, \u017ee jsme tam nebyli sami, ubylo. Na druh\u00fd den se v\u0161ak rapidn\u011b zhor\u0161ila p\u0159edpov\u011b\u010f, hl\u00e1s\u00edc od poledn\u00edho velmi siln\u00e9 bou\u0159ky. Bosanski Magli\u010d je pom\u011brn\u011b izolovan\u00fd a hol\u00fd vrchol, p\u0159i se\u010dten\u00ed rizik – d\u00e9lka v\u00fdstupu, absence vody, riziko bou\u0159ky, kom\u00e1\u0159i, mi vych\u00e1z\u00ed, \u017ee je zbyte\u010dn\u00e9 riskovat. R\u00e1no tedy bal\u00edm stan a p\u0159ipravuji se na extr\u00e9mn\u00ed trailov\u00fd b\u011bh \u00fazem\u00edm kom\u00e1r\u016f zp\u011bt k autu. Nu\u017e, nen\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00fd den posv\u00edcen\u00ed, \u017ee.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u00a0Ale jinak p\u011bkn\u00fd \ud83d\ude42 fakt:) ale do h\u00e1je, tolik kom\u00e1r\u016f nebylo ani v l\u00e9t\u011b ve skandin\u00e1vii.\u00a0<\/p>

No a potom, u\u017e hezky upravenou a ul\u00edznutou cestou, do Hercegoviny, do Mostaru.<\/p>

Mostar<\/h3>

Cesta vnitrozem\u00edm z bosensk\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti do Hercegoviny byla dlouh\u00e1, ale zaj\u00edmav\u00e1. Rozd\u00edl mezi mezi ob\u011bma federacemi je velk\u00fd. Architektura, krajina, lid\u00e9, n\u00e1lada.. a cyrilice a latinka!:D<\/p>

Na obzoru se u\u017e od brzk\u00e9ho dopoledne objevily bou\u0159ky, a tak jsem kone\u010dn\u011b na vlastn\u00ed o\u010di spat\u0159il m\u00edsta, kter\u00e1 zn\u00e1m jen z map bleskov\u00fdch v\u00fdboj\u016f (long story short, p\u0159es it\u00e1lii dycky p\u0159ech\u00e1z\u00ed siln\u00fd p\u00e1s bou\u0159ek, nad jadranem nabere je\u0161t\u011b na s\u00edle a pak pokra\u010duje bosnou).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mostar je hrozn\u011b kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 m\u011bsto. V\u00fdrazn\u011b turisti\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e Sarajevo se spoustou dokonal\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed, kav\u00e1ren, bo\u017e\u00ed bosenskou k\u00e1vou no a pak slavn\u00fd Stari Most. Ov\u0161em, tenhle je replika. P\u016fvodn\u00ed rozst\u0159elil chorvatsk\u00fd tankista..\u00a0<\/p>

Mimo sk\u00e1kaj\u00edc\u00ed odv\u00e1\u017elivce mne na most\u011b zaujal m\u00edstn\u00ed pes, kter\u00fd se nau\u010dil cvak\u00e1n\u00edm \u010delist\u00ed vra\u017edit roj\u00edc\u00ed se vosy. Talentovan\u00fd pes. Vskutku.\u00a0<\/p>

V okol\u00ed je toho op\u011bt mnoho k vid\u011bn\u00ed.\u00a0<\/p>

Nap\u0159\u00edklad Vrelo Bune – muslimsk\u00e9 poutn\u00ed m\u00edsto se skaln\u00ed v\u00fdv\u011brou \u0159eky, kde jsem byl proklat \u017eebraj\u00edc\u00ed muslimkou.<\/p>

Nad t\u00edm je kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 z\u0159\u00edcenina Stjepan grad<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Po\u010ditejl\u00a0– historick\u00e9 m\u011bsto nad \u0159ekou s hradem.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Soutok Neretvy a Buny v des\u00edtce mal\u00fdch vodop\u00e1d\u016f.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kravica<\/h3>

No a Kravica jsou takov\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 vodop\u00e1dy, dopoledne s minimem lid\u00ed, voda b\u00e1je\u010dn\u00e1, d\u00edky siln\u00e9mu p\u0159\u00edtoku i \u010dist\u00e1.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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jinak, v bosn\u011b si Sofie u\u017e\u00edvala neuv\u011b\u0159itelnou pozornost okoln\u00edch lid\u00ed! Tolik zvuk\u016f, \u017e\u00e1dost\u00ed o pohlazen\u00ed a nad\u0161en\u00fdch obli\u010dej\u016f jsem nikdy nevid\u011bl. Davov\u00e1 psych\u00f3za p\u0159i ve\u010dern\u00ed proch\u00e1zkou m\u011bstem se sm\u011ble mohla vyrovnat atmosf\u00e9\u0159e koncert\u016f Beatles v dob\u00e1ch jejich nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Chorvatsko – Makarsk\u00e1<\/h3>

No. Sofie vid\u011bla poprv\u00e9 mo\u0159e (fuj, slan\u00fd), j\u00e1 byl poprv\u00e9 v \u017eivot\u011b v Chorvatsku (fakt \ud83d\ude00 ) a .. prost\u011b mo\u0159e, no.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Cestou dom\u016f, do \u010dech, jsme se zastavili u krasov\u00e9 v\u00fdv\u011bry \u0159eky Cetiny. M\u00edsto za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 b\u00fdt ka\u017edou sez\u00f3nou profl\u00e1klej\u0161\u00ed a profl\u00e1klej\u0161\u00ed. V okol\u00ed je spousta opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch a polorozbo\u0159en\u00fdch staveb, kter\u00e9 jsou tak\u00e9 poz\u016fstatkem v\u00e1lky.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Resum\u00e9:<\/h3>

bosna je super! A\u017e bude p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost, do Sarajeva se moc r\u00e1d vr\u00e1t\u00edm. Mostar je pro cestu po vlastn\u00ed ose u\u017e docela daleko. Na Makarskou se nevr\u00e1t\u00edm, je daleko a oproti jin\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edmo\u0159sk\u00fdm destinac\u00edm od st\u0159edozemn\u00edho mo\u0159e nevid\u00edm \u017e\u00e1dnou p\u0159idanou hodnotu a Sofii ta slan\u00e1 voda nechutn\u00e1 .. \ud83d\ude00\u00a0<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rozporupln\u00e1 a t\u0159askav\u00e1, tajemn\u00e1 a s pohnutou histori\u00ed. Nejbli\u017e\u0161\u00ed dotek orientu Praze. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3521,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3522","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-nezarazene"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3522","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3522"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3522\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3592,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3522\/revisions\/3592"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3521"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3522"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3522"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.meziprostor.martinsznapka.cz\/subdom\/meziprostor\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3522"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}